Checking the finished fabric. Page 60

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Purpose of processing

The last check that is carried out on the fabric once all the finishing processes have been carried out and before the fabric is rolled up and sent to the garment maker, is carried out by specialized personnel in the mirror or court (equipment described in the control sheet
of the dyed patches). In many cases, a further check on the pieces is carried out by personnel of the client company or by external control centers at the request of the packer. It is important to know how this is done.

Execution of processing

The check aims to identify all those visible defects that make the fabric unsuitable for
packaging. The assistant takes the sample-type as a reference parameter and, on the basis of this, finds:

weight,
the hand,
the look,
color,
drawing,

other elements that must characterize the fabric.
When the employee detects defects, she reports them with special "calls" (yarn bells
placed on the selvedges in correspondence with the defect which, in this way is signaled) which will result in wire transfers (rebates) on the footage to be invoiced to the garment maker.
In particular, the employee must detect and report the presence of:
holes, tears or sections of cut selvedges;
dead folds, beatings;
differences between center and selvedges;
strikethrough;
wefts or sections of missing and defective thread;
scratches due to the warp effect;
weft or warp skipping or t-shirts;

flames, trims and knots;
spots, halos, spots.
The assistant must also:
check that the right thread and the regularity of the drawing are guaranteed;
measure the height of the fabric;
check if the fabric has an unpleasant odor.
Usually, for each piece the employee specifies, behind the accompanying folder, the quantity, type and extent of the defects found that will constitute the rebate for the garment maker.
In case of particular seriousness of the defects, the employee must inform the person in charge of the control or "teacher", who, in turn, can decide independently or contact the managers of her company.
Some reported defects make the piece unsuitable to be sent to the garment manufacturer and require
that the fabric is again subjected to some processes, to bring the piece within the tolerance of defects allowed and then be able to send it to the customer.

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