Checking the finished fabric. Page 60

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Purpose of processing

The last check which is carried out on the fabric once all the finishing processes have been carried out and before the fabric is rolled up and sent to the manufacturer, is carried out by specialized personnel at the mirror or court (equipment described in the check sheet
of dyed pieces). In many cases a further check on the pieces is carried out by personnel of the client company or by external control centers at the request of the garment maker. It is important to know how it is done.

Execution of the work

The check aims to identify all those visible defects that make the fabric unsuitable for use
packaging. The employee takes the standard sample as a reference parameter and, on the basis of this, finds:

weight,
the hand,
the look,
color,
drawing,

other elements that must characterize the fabric.
When the employee detects defects, she reports them with special "calls" (yarn bells
placed on the selvages corresponding to the defect which is thus reported) which will translate into credit transfers (rebates) on the length to be invoiced to the dressmaker.
In particular, the employee must detect and report the presence of:
holes, tears or sections of selvedge cut;
dead folds, beatings;
differences between center and selvedge;
strikethroughs;
missing and defective wefts or sections of thread;
stripes due to warp effect;
warp or weft skips or shirts;

flaming, swelling and knots;
stains, halos, dots.
The employee will also have to:
check that the straight thread and the regularity of the design are guaranteed;
measure the height of the fabric;
check if the fabric has an unpleasant odor.
Usually, for each piece the employee specifies, on the accompanying folder, the quantity, type and extent of the defects detected which will constitute the rebate for the manufacturer.
In the event of particular seriousness of the defects, the employee must inform the person in charge of the control or "master", who, in turn, can decide independently or contact the managers of her company.
Some reported defects make the piece unsuitable for shipping to the manufacturer and require
that the fabric is subjected to some processes again, to bring the piece within the permitted defect tolerance and therefore be able to send it to the customer.

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