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The Classification of Fabrics Page 14
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Traditional fabric
Each item created is identified with a code (a name and / or a number) to distinguish with
precision and comfort the various types of product, both in the production arrangements and in the reports
commercial, which at the time of realization.
Traditional fabric consists of the intertwining of warp threads (vertical) with a series of wefts (horizontal)
unlike knitted fabrics which are made up of a single series of threads which by means of a
curvilinear weave on themselves give rise to the knit.
Among the industrial fabrics we mention non-woven fabrics (TNT), which are flexible textile surfaces obtained
by cohesion of fiber webs, generally synthetic. At the base of the production of TNT there is the
preparation of the web, obtainable with a carding operation, which opens the fibers and arranges them in webs
parallel. The fiber webs can be held together by knitted binding threads placed across
a series of special needles that overlap the veils create the TNT. Another way to hold
united the plies coming from carding uses the fibers themselves, forming real needles with special needles
tie points.
In all cases, the main dimensions relating to the piece are:
• the height, which is expressed in centimeters and is measured horizontally from one selvedge to the other
or in any case from one side of the fabric to the other;
• the length, which is measured in the direction of the warp from the head to the tail of the piece
(or in any case from one end to the other) and is expressed in meters with two decimals.
Selvedges, not present in knitted fabrics and non-woven fabrics, consist of a certain
number of warp threads located on both sides of the fabric along the entire length of the piece.
The subdivision of fabrics for classifications can be done on the basis of:
A. to use;
B. to the drawing;
C. to the elements that compose them.
The classification based on use
In relation to the use for which the fabrics are intended, they can be classified as follows:
1) Fabrics for clothing
• Woolen (women's fabrics)
• Drapery (men's fabrics)
2) Furnishing fabrics
• Upholstery
• Linen
• Domestic use
The classification by drawing
Based on the design, the fabrics are divided into three large groups:
1) Plain fabrics. Made on looms equipped with heddles, they are the group in which most of the
fabrics for clothing, are divided into:
• smooth fabrics, which do not have any evident design
• woven or woven effect fabrics, which have small designs obtained
with small interweaving effects.
2) Fabrics available. They are the ones that feature great geometric design effects
rectilinear and are mostly formed by combinations of several weaves and are obtained
on looms equipped with heddles. The width of the design is due to the passage system of the threads in the healds.
This group includes both clothing and furnishing fabrics (damask tablecloths
checkers, covered with a Greek flounce, etc.).
3) Textured fabrics. They are the ones that have great ornamental and curvilinear design effects. They are obtained on looms where the movement of the warp threads, rather than with the heddles, is obtained
with special machines (Jacquard, Vincenzi, Verdol or electronic) that "read" the weave
to be made from continuous paper modules or digital discs. This group includes the most
part of the fabrics for furnishings and particular types for clothing.
All the tissues belonging to each of these groups can in turn be classified on the basis
to the construction or more precisely in relation to the number of elements that compose them.
The classification based on the elements
Based on the number of component elements, the fabrics are divided into two large groups:
1. Simple fabrics. That is, those fabrics whose formation only two elements contribute: one
series of threads and a series of textures.
2. Compound tissues. In other words, those fabrics whose formation involves at least three elements,
can be divided in turn into several types, of which the main ones are:
to. three-element fabrics with double chain and a series of wefts or vice versa;
b. double, triple, padded fabrics, etc. with four or more elements. Doubles and triples are also called
multiple fabrics.
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